Yearly Archives: 2016


Fuselage 37 – Conduit & Misc

Its cold out! I had a little spare time this evening to begin work on a few miscellaneous projects. First up, I need to route some conduit to the tail of the plane for the elevator trim and the rudder strobe. I’m going to use the same flexible tube conduit from Van’s I used in the wings. A few builders have created new holes in the bulkhead, but I’m not a big fan of drilling extra holes in this location. I’m going to use zip ties. To help protect from chaffing I made some small doublers from the split tube conduit I have for each zip tie / bulkhead location.  

Here is the conduit with the extra conduit doubler on top.   

Here is the final version of the left rudder cable fairing I made in the previous session.

While I didn’t take a photo, I also fabricated the second fairing for the right side tonight and then primed.

I also made the bonehead mistake of placing the static ports one bulkhead further forward than they are supposed to be. I drilled them out quickly.

I’m going to use an oops rivet to fix. I slightly countersunk the surface, and here is the result. I still need to drive the rivet, but it is impossible to do solo.  

Next I ran the static line in its proper location. I didn’t trim the tubing, and will wait until my new static ports arrive. You can also see the conduit installed in this photo. I’m not entirely sure how far forward I will bring the conduit at this point. My thought is that I will bring it forward to either the battery location, or to the first bulkhead (by the rear seat) that has a location drilled for the aft battery. The ELT remote, elevator trim, battery cable, and strobe wiring, will all have to be routed here.  

Session time: 3.0 hours 


Fuselage 36 – Rudder cables

First task for today was to drill the rudder cable routing holes through the center section. I used a step bit (unibit) for the forward holes, but because of the bracket for mounting the floor plates, I could not do the same for the aft holes. I was able to get the aft hole started with a step bit, and then I used a number of incrementally larger bits through the forward hole. This allowed me to avoid hitting the floor mounting bracket. img_9226.jpeg

Here you can see the aft hole. It is drilled to 1/2″. img_9455.jpeg

Unfortunately, the length of the 5/8″ drill bit, when combined with my drill, is too long. The drill hits the mounting for the fuel selector valve, and as a result I cannot access the aft hole at the proper angle. My 90 degree drill extension will not accept the 5/8″ bit (even with a reduced diameter shank. So I’m not sure what I’m going to do. To be honest, I think I may grind a portion of the drill bits shank to fit in my 90 degree extension. We’ll see if another idea presents itself. img_9456.jpeg

As I was stalled on the rudder routing, I turned my attention to a rudder fairing. Apparently they sell some overpriced ones on Aircraft Spruce and some other places, but I also found some simple instructions for a do-it-yourself version. First cut a piece of .020 to 4″x4″, then mark out the measurements show. Note that I messed up the outer lines. The correct lines are in red. img_9229.jpeg

Start by bending the center to 90 degrees, and then bend the outer lines to 45 degrees. A hand seamer, some wood, and a vice are helpful. Here is the rudder cable exiting the fuselage in stock form.img_9230.jpeg

Here is the fairing I made following the instructions I stole from another builder here. Note that the fairing overlaps the skin joint. To correct this, I marked the location of the skin joint and then measured and marked a symmetrical portion on the upper flange of the fairing. This picture isn’t great, as the fairing will sit a little bit lower on the left to not interfere with the hole for the attachment of the protective tube. img_9231.jpeg

Here is the result after trimming and priming. I plan to secure the fairing with pro-seal. img_9234.jpeg


Fastback 13 – Riveting turtledeck

Long session in the shop today, but it should be a fairly short post. My buddy Jack came over to help me with the riveting of the turtledeck to the fuselage. I was crammed inside on the bucking bar while Jack had the rivet gun. It was slow going at times, and might uncomfortable, but we got it done. The rivets came out ok. There are a few areas where the intersections look a little wavy, but its only cosmetic and can be easily fixed when I go to paint.

Here’s a picture inside looking up a the completed rear shoulder harness attachment points.  

We also installed three clips for holding the tubing from the static ports.

Here’s the completed turtledeck. The legs belong to Jack.   

Next I turned my attention back to the passage of the rudder cable through the center section of the fuselage where the spars are inserted. Unfortunately, there is not enough room to drill the hole from the aft position. I will need to drill both coming from the front side.

I don’t have a 5/8 inch bit, so I’ll have to return to this when I get one.   

John Raffensparger had a good idea for my tail inserts. Drill a few holes in them to act as handles for putting them in. I also trimmed a couple corners again to make removal and insertion easier.

I match drilled the rear battery tray. After doing some research, and crunching some numbers, I’ve decided to put my battery in the back. With an IO-360, constant speed prop, and a pilot who only weighs 135lbs, a little more weight in the tail will be a welcome addition.   

Quick priming job for the battery tray. There are some nut plates that go on the aft side of the tray, and I cannot for the life of me determine what their purpose is.

I received my resupply from Aircraft Spruce. I was tired of being a few rivets shy on things, so anything that looked like it needed a top up, got a minimum order. Even if I have tons left over, thats okay, as I know I’ll find uses for them over the years. 

I also purchased some ignition open end wrenches, flexible socket extensions, and dremel sanding bits from Amazon. The open end wrenches have one side that is offset almost 90 degrees and will be perfect for a few tight spaces.

Session time: 8.0 hours