Firewall Forward


Post first start corrections

After the first start, there were a few squawks we discovered. First, in the third startup we were not able to get the prop to cycle. Research after the fact showed folks reporting that a higher RPM is required to get the oil flowing on first start for the whirl wind props. 2000 – 2300 RPM were suggested. Tonight I set about testing that – sure enough it worked! The prop now cycles appropriately.

Amazingly I had not put a gasket under the magneto! Yikes! And I had two sitting on hand. So I had to remove the magneto, install a gasket, and retime. I did my best to mark the magneto position and lock the gear in place, but I still had to verify the timing. I got it spot on.

Also found the oil cooler scat tubing is rubbing on my oil dipstick. I put a couple solutions in place, but I fear neither are long term solutions. I will need a more secure method of holding it in place.

The baggage door lock had been problematic during first start. The latch came apart due to a fault bushing I had damaged carelessly closing the baggage door previously. So for first start up I had to tape the door shut. It was an easy fix tonight and the baggage door was good as new.

I also went over the plane with a fine tooth comb looking for any loose items or other fixes.


Misc wrap up work

Getting ready for the first engine start… but most of the things on my checklist for the engine start are complete. Many of the remaining items on my list need to wait until after the first start. So I worked on a number of small projects – some needed in the near future. Others not needed until whenever I decide I want them done.

Projects accomplished tonight. Some temporary seat covers made from pillow cases. Instrument panel white led lights hooked up. Foil added to the bottom cowl. Wheel pant fiberglass work. The instrument panel white LED lights are bright and will need adjustments. First, I need to bring them aft about one inch. This will provide much better visibility and reduce shadows on the panel. Second, I need to shorten the LED strip. Its a bit too long at the moment, which means my eyes can catch direct light at both ends of the strips. Shortening the lights will have the secondary effect of reducing the amount of light output. Currently its a bit too much even a low levels.  Lastly, I’ll need to improve the wire routing – its a bit ugly at the moment, but its functional and works as a proof of concept. Plenty of time between now and final paint!


Heat Muff Installation

The heat muff provided by Van’s has the inlet and the outlet on the same side of the heat muff. For my installation this would not work. I tried every conceivable location for the heat muff. Without building a new custom muff, the only location that would work was coming off the #1 exhaust. This was fortunate for the air inlet, but not great for the outlet back to the firewall.

I cut the muff in two, and used another band of aluminum to tie the two halves back together, but with the inlet and outlet rotated appropriately for my geometry.

I also filled the heat muff with stainless steel wool. This should slow the air velocity down and also improve heat transfer surface area. The end result should be hotter more effective winter time heat in the cockpit.