I use a large bag of lead shot to hold the skin firmly down on the back riveting plate. This is especially useful for the rivets that are very close to the trailing edge. As you pull the top side of the aileron skin up to access the shop head with the rivet gun the side you are trying to rivet will also want to lift off the back riveting plate… which is a recipe for a nasty mistake.
Next it was time to bend the trailing edge. I use a large bending brake made from wood with some simple door hinges courtesy of Mr. Bullock. Squire is always ready to help. With the ailerons, I had to use another 2×4 and the bag of lead shot to stop the skin sliding out of the brake.
I am very happy with the results. A quick check with a rule showed that the radius is within limits and there is no bend or bulge. The skin is perfectly straight from the spar to the trailing edge. I also checked the trailing edge for any bow or distortion and there is none.
The rivets on the bottom of the spar are drilled out to #30 in order to accommodate the CS4-4 rivet shown here. The aileron counterweight, otherwise known as a galvanized pipe, is also drilled out to #30.
I haven’t gotten to use this yet, but my uncle gave me this, and I highly recommend it. This bad boy is perfect for the quick priming job or touch up. Mix your primer in the glass jar and boom you’re ready to spray. The propellant lasts enough for about a jar and a half. No cleanup, setup or air compressor required! I wish I had discovered this awhile ago. Finally, the components will need to be dimpled. A word of caution here. Van’s doesn’t mention anything in the instructions about dimpling the leading edge to counterweight. Be careful. Normal dimpling methods will distort the skin due to curvature of the skin at this point. The method most builders use, and I will detail further when I do it is to use the countersunk counterweight pipe as the female die.