Monthly Archives: February 2013


Horizontal Stab 15 (0.5 hr)

Tonight I implemented the first part of my skin repair. I flattened the dimple, re-dimpled in the correct location, and drill stopped the crack. I’m not super happy with the result because the crack almost makes a complete circle… Still debating if I should add two additional rivets per below:

Here is my email to Van’s tech support:

Van’s Aircraft:
Seems like I’m making a lot of mistakes.Well, here’s my latest one:

Doing my first dimpling on the HS 801 Skin and while I thought I had the skin on the dimple… it slipped. The “new” dimple is right next to the hole.This hole is in the center on the rear edge for attaching to the rear spar. I’ve included some pictures. Unfortunately, I cannot simply stop drill and continue.. neither a 3/32″ or a 1/8″ rivet will completely cover it. I don’t feel that one bad dimple requires a new skin, but I’m not sure how to best implement a fix.

Based on some threads I’ve read, this is what I’m currently thinking to do…. but I’m worried this might not be acceptable.
1. Stop drill the crack.
2. Drill the original hole to 1/8″
3. Dimple with 1/8″ die.
4. Rivet with 1/8″ rivet??
5. Add some type of filler…???

I’ve seen alternate solutions such as adding another rivet next to the original hole, or leaving the rivet out entirely. I think any rivet has more strength than no rivet, so I don’t like the latter.

And their response:

There are a few options on how to fix this when you make a mistake like this. The first thing is to treat the area for cracks, normally it will tear the hole completely out so you can just run a drill bit thorough the hole and deburr like normal. In your case it did not brake the circle away but still may be better to just drill the effected area out. You can abandon this hole and
add a rivet to ether side or add the two and still install this one for looks. You can drive this rivet with the addition of JB weld to fill the void and add some structural stability. The other options would be to replace the skin if you don’t want your friends to see what you did.

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Horizontal Stab 14 (3.0 hrs)

Today I worked on the left stab. I drilled the trim cable hole in the front spar using my step-bits. Both sides of the stab have been completely deburred and dimpled. The only remaining work is to finish dimpling the skins, and I’ll be ready to prime and rivet.

Unfortunately, I made another mistake. Go figure. It feels like every other post I make a stupid mistake. Well I screwed up a dimple in one of the skins. I think it can be repaired. But I might have to order a new skin… I posted to Van’s Airforce and Rivetbanger’s to get expert opinions. Ugh. Not happy.

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Horizontal Stab 13 (4.5 hrs)

Today was the best day I’ve had working on the kit. I’ve received the parts from Van’s earlier this week. (I was given some great advice about ordering from Van’s: Call rather than use the web, and ship via USPS priority mail. I ordered the parts on a Friday afternoon. Monday was a federal holiday, and I received the parts on Tuesday!) The parts were the HS-404 and HS-405 to correct the previous mistakes.

Here are the parts. (I ordered an extra 404 just in case the other one needed to be replaced as well)

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In order to fit the new 404 and 405 I would have to cleco the skeleton’s and skins back together for both sides. Here is the right side: (and yes, I did notice the front spar is backwards…)

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Here are the markings for the cutouts to the HS-404:

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And the 404 after cutting:

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The 404 is clamped into place, and then match drilled to the center line of the flange.

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The holes shown below are for the rivets that hold the HS-404 to the front spar and the HS-405 main rib. Everything is within specs! (Digital calipers are a must)

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Here is the 405 in place. I didn’t take any pictures of the fluting process, but I’m happy to report it went well. This was my first attempt at fluting, as all the other ribs had been fluted by the previous owner of the kit. I watched a quick video on fluting via the Hints for Homebuilders on EAA’s website. I nailed it on the first attempt. Using the technique in the video, I held the rib flat to the table with my thumb and then fluted between the marks for every other hole. I would squeeze just hard enough to watch the end raise slightly. I used a metal ruler to check the straightness. It wasn’t perfect on the first pass, so I put a very light flute in the gaps I had skipped. Worked perfectly.

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