This has been a frustrating weekend for the project.  As I noted previously, I ran out of K1000-03 nut-plates, so I was not able to finish installing the z-brackets.  I put out a call to local builders, and still no luck!  I guess Van’s doesn’t include many extra K1000-03 nut-plates with their kits. In the mean time I decided to start work on the access plate since it was easily accessible and the next logical step.  Unfortunately, neither Sears or Lowes had a fly cutter!  Foiled again. No more.  This time I went on Amazon and ordered a fly cutter, and made a promise to myself… I’m never shopping in a retail store again! By this point, Saturday was basically shot.  What I decided to do was install all the brackets and ensure the bolts properly seated in the nut-plates.  A few needed very minor adjustments, but I was able to install all the completed ones.

Thats when I realized I could at least drill out the z-brackets.  I fabricated the new inboard brackets, and just bolted them in place and then using the Checkoway Method, I drilled the baffle to the brackets. After I got that done, I final drilled both tanks in their entirety. The stiffeners are already complete as is the attachment angle.  I need to do the capacitive fuel sensors, fuel drains, and fuel caps.  Then its deburr, dimple, and seal!  School starts back up next week, so I’m really hoping I can get a lot done this week.

In an earlier post I referenced Jason Beaver’s RV-7 build for a thorough walk through on the Checkoway Method. I did not take many pictures, nor do I have the energy to type up the full procedure as he has done, but I will provide a synopsis.  Definitely use this method and do not follow Van’s instructions.

Checkoway Method: Temporarily install and align the fully clecoed tanks in order to ensure proper alignment.  By removing the outboard leading edge you can drill the innermost and outermost brackets and cleco in place.  This ensures that the baffle is perfectly aligned.  Remove the skin, and interior ribs so that only the baffle and outter ribs remain.  Now you can access the entire baffle for match drilling.

Here are some pictures mostly from when I finished for the evening. 

Here is the middle of the Checkoway Method.  By drilling the other brackets, and then removing the rest of the structure you can easily access the middle of the baffle.  Just remember that the ribs still need to be final drilled when you put it all back together.

A few pics of the shop at the conclusion of the session.  

The z-brackets have not gone well.  First, I moved the holes in the wrong direction for the in board brackets.  I quickly ordered replacements from Van’s.   Next, upon riveting the nutplates on, I discovered I was short!  If only I’d known, I would have ordered those too.  A previous error had forced me to use a couple extra nutplates, but even with those I would still be short a couple.  I’ll admit, when I did inventory I didn’t count every rivet and nutplate… it seems I was not shipped enough.  Oh well. I put a call out on Van’s Airforce and to some local builders to see if I can track some down in time for the weekend.

Here are pictures from today’s progress…

I also made the tank attachment angles.

I also noticed I’m having a little trouble getting the bolts to thread properly. After doing a little research I found that boelube helps a fair amount.  I’ll have to try that tomorrow. 

After realizing I had messed up two of the z-brackets, I did the proper research on the Checkoway Method for installing the tanks.  When I have finished fitting the tanks and the z-brackets, I will be sure to write a concise summary of the method.  For now, I needed to assemble the fuel tanks, including baffles to fit to the wings.  This will allow me to ensure proper fit and alignment.  This evening I assembled the right fuel tank and started on the left.  Upon fitting the right fuel tank to the wing, I confirmed that all of my z-brackets should be good, except the inner most one, whose rivets will be outside the proper edge distance parameters.  Given that this is the root z-bracket which will have the most load, I will definitely be ordering a replacement on Monday.  Here are some pictures of the process.